Westcountry scientists’ research offers hope to save bees – Western Morning News

http://www.westernmorningnews.co.uk/Westcountry-scientists-research-offers-hope-save/story-28121558-detail/story.html

The deformed wing virus (DWV) carried by the mite is believed to be one of the reasons why bee numbers have halved in the UK in the last 25 years.

Now researchers at the Marine Biological Association (MBA) in Plymouth have solved the riddle of why one bee colony has survived despite high levels of infection by the virus, which wiped out its neighbours.

…They discovered that the survivors were infected by a different type of DWV, which the MBA scientists suggest is dominant and protected the bees against the lethal variety.

The lead researcher said the findings pointed to a natural solution to the colony collapse problem.

“It was great to see that through the process of natural selection, honey bees, Varroa and DWV were able to reach a stable state, with honey bee colonies able to survive without the use of a chemical Varroa treatment,” said Gideon Mordecai.

Scientists to Breed Genetically Modified Bees: Here’s Why – Tech Times

http://www.techtimes.com/articles/103858/20151106/scientists-to-breed-genetically-modified-bees-heres-why.htm

Tech TimesScientists to Breed Genetically Modified Bees: Here’s WhyTech Times A bee genome project at the University of British Columbia will allow scientists to breed made-for-Canada-honeybee that can resist pests and disease. This is to greatly accelerate selective breeding and ensure continuing benefits …

Supercedure and too many supers

For the first time I have 2 queens running side by side in one of my hives. I was looking through my hive the other day and saw the queen and was quite happy that she was doing well, this year’s blue queen, born about the end of May. Then I turned over the frame and randomly spotted another queen, in lay, by the size of her, and unmarked. Now I have enough fun finding queens at the best of times, so I have no idea how I spotted her and I don’t know what they are playing at superseding so soon, especially as the first is laying quite nicely. Well I am sure they know what they are about…

In other news, I have found k-wing in 2 hives and as such have started treating for varroa, as it happens I also found a bit of deformed wing on the other 2 hives on that site. I have swapped to apiguard this year from my usual api life var, just cos I had it to be honest. A few weeks ago I went round and cleared off what I had assumed would be the last of this year’s honey; the borage was cut and everything was slowing. Or so I thought. I went round and took off another 4 supers in total. Due to a backlog I now have 17 waiting for me to extract – I had to climb a step ladder to get the top ones on the stack – sigh… I appreciate for many this may be a welcome problem, too much honey, but it takes a long time to decapitate (sic) & spin. And its a sticky job. And then you have to put the supers on a hive to pull the remains of the honey out (As such I have left a couple of hives without treatment for now). And filter the honey into buckets. And this is all before jarring, labeling, selling, etc.

Oh and for those who think “oh that’s a good amount of honey”, it all comes at a price. I’m looking down a £350 sales shopping list at Thorne’s sale this weekend and at some point I want to get a motor on this extractor so another £350. And earlier in the year I paid about £300 for jars, and £70+ for turpentine and linseed oil – it never stops just keeps going around… Vicky ( the other half) is going to start a spreadsheet, as I think I spend more than I get back. Still its a hobby and my other hobbies I have would cost far more if I was doing them instead (yacht sailing is very far from inexpensive and the bees have kept me off that for 2-3 years now).

Wasp prevention

 

Wasps are a problem for bee hives this time of year, and for people in general. In all fairness it’s not the wasps fault, it is part of their brood cycle that causes them to starve and so they go about causing a nuisance of themselves.

Wasps can strip a hive in a week, they are after the honey, but along the way will kill all the bees or leave them so weak that they will likely not make it through the winter, so its something that needs to be dealt with one way or the other.

What to do about it?

Well the default advice that we get is to close down the entrance to one bee space. That’s about the space of sticking your little finger in. Don’t try this when sorting out the space, they don’t like being poked that much and if that’s all the space they have for getting in and out they may ‘take exception’ to you in the classic manner of upset bees. The model by which this works is that it allows the hive to be defended by having a small entrance the enemy have to funnel through – for example not his this works see the Battle of Thermopylae or the film of that 300.

There are a number of permutations on this model where you make either single bee routes in and out the hive or make them run the gauntlet while allowing bees to sting them as they try to enter via a channel of mesh or similar.

If your hive has already bee battered by wasps though there may not be much of a resistance force left so you could try an anti-robbing screen as shown on ‘Phil Craft Hive Craft’ or on Linda’s bees. The idea of this is to fool the wasps (also works if you have bees robbing the hive) into trying to get in a mesh covered entrance while the colony’s bees go in and out of a sneaky side entrance.

Talking of mesh, if a wasp makes it inside it is said they will feed their friends through a mesh floor. Obviously not as bad as a full on attack, but it might be an idea to take a look and think about closing the floor up. HOWEVER, given you are closing the entrance to one bee space, and its the hottest time of the year you may end up cooking your bees and blocking the entrance as they try to remove the dead dooming the whole hive; so blocking that up may be a death sentence. An extra layer of mesh below the screen floor about a cm (3/8inch) or more should prevent them ‘fencing’ their stolen goods.

Wasp traps work somwhat, you will need a few, wasps come in quite a number. You can get commercial models, I would recommend Wasp bane – not cheap but does the job well. Or you can make your own trap very simply. It is said that you should keep the traps to the edge of the apiary, for fear they attract the wasps to your hives. Personally I keep me by the hives as I think they will smell the hives first and the traps second. Don’t use honey in the traps or it will end up full of bees. Although inverted sugar syrup, the type you feed your bees in autumn works very well and I have not seen bees in the traps.

If anyone else has any ideas about how to deal with wasp attack, I’d love to hear about it in the comments below…

 

A beekeeper’s pockets

I washed my beekeeping jacket tonight and thought I would share what  keep my pockets to do the task at hand – From the top – lighters (have a spare), multi-tool (pliers, knife, screwdrivers), compass & thermometer, keys to the farmer’s borage field, queen marking cages, butler cage, 3 puzzle cages, queen markers (this year’s blue for new queens, last year’s green for re-marking), hive strap, sting relief and scraps of paper to start the smoker. In the middle is a thin piece of plastic I use to break brace comb in mating nucs between the comb and the hive wall.

A beekeeper's pockets

Honey honey honey

20150606_115938 (1)Well, it’s not being a bad year so far, up til yesterday I had maybe 250lb off in 5 batches. Then the other day I needed to move hives to the borage, I am very late to the party – part late notification of where I could put them from the farmer, part lack of time and part procrastination I guess.

Now those of you who have moved hives in summer may know of the issues – you have to do it at night and you have to do it with supers on. In my case the former added to most of the delay – its hard to be motivated at 9pm to start lugging hives after a long day – and the latter caught me out. I had picked up and successfully delivered to site the hive I expected to be trouble – they were good as gold, so that re-queening worked. I thought to myself, “well that was surprisingly easy, I will go and do the others”.

That’s where I came across the latter. Hives with full supers are not movable by one person,  in the dark, with a family hatchback to struggle them into – it just wasn’t going to end well for anyone. So I popped some wet supers on top of one of the larger hives over the crown board fo be cleaned by the bees and called it a night.

Oh, before I forget, angry bees, in the dark, when you can’t see where they are coming from to attack you… yeah, not nice at all – kind of stuff of nightmares. Oh and that while driving, recipe for an accident if ever there was one – so drive in a bee suit or at very least a veil. Sure you get funny looks, including a police officer in central London once, but that’s another story.

Anyway, where was I? Ah yes, honey… I went back this weekend and from 6 hives I took 10 1/2 full supers (and I mean full – I decant frames and put the not filled frames back) I figure somewhere just south of 300lb of honey – not bad for an intermediate harvest and no wonder I could not lift those hives.

(The picture is of the June 6th harvest, part of the first 250lb)

Lovely queens

I have been lucky enough to fall on my feet with nice queens this year. There has been some breeding (by which I mean selection of the best stocks and taking their swarm cells), some culling of mean queens and some successful rearing (cells to mated queens in mating nucs).
I’ve had a few queens go without permission, but its all turned out pretty well. Even the mean hive that I tried to requeen has lost its queen and become queenless and yet strangely still become less agitated and aggressive than when it had a queen.
Yesterday I sold a couple of queens to a friend at the bee club. He had some mean hives and wanted to do something about it – just as well as they were sited on an allotment. When I was there I stood across the apiary from them, about 15-20ft, and even without approaching never mind opening those hives I was attacked by a couple. Now I have had some rough hives, but never one with a guard radius like that. Either way those queens should be lovely and whether it takes a day or a month or two they should change those hives for the bettter. They were introduced to a hive of other bees from mixed hives to allow introduction before merging with the target colonies.
Oh the only queen rearing issue I have had is that my sky blue queen marker is a bit flakey. The ‘ink’ keeps separating and becoming watery and the queens keep rubbing it off around the hive. Hey, it ain’t all that bad if that’s all you have to worry about.

New Apiary

Good news !! I got the go ahead to have bees on the allotment. The start of a new era, beekeeping close to home.

Now I need to clear out the shed and paint it, then finish the netting enclosure, create a level base of the hive (currently on a slight slope), etc, etc… Then I need to swap hives around to get some friendly bees on site; the last thing I need is to move bees in that are less than compatible with nearby people.

Wish me luck

Surprise visitors.

For the past few weeks I have been wondering where all the swarms were, others on the swarm  collection list were picking swarms up from around me, but I’d not seen one.

Friday, I am just on a lunch break and working from home I had popped to the allotment to have a look about. My better half calls and says there are bees all over the garden – which is not usual because I don’t keep bees at home.  I went home to look and true enough they had perched themselves in a hedge by the side of the road. For added fun it was right by the local primary school and there was about 30mins til the kids got out and the road would be swarming with home time mums, dogs, prams, etc. I called the school to warm them but they said there wasn’t much they could do. This is where facebook comes in handy. My better half is on the school group and drops them a line warning them. The result of that was very effective in the end.

Anyway with the use of wheelie bins a neighbour and I blocked of the path on the swarm side of the road and I got on with collection. It was only a small swarm but better to take it than leave it there to nest in someone’s roof later. I snipped away some of the bush (must sharpen those secateurs) and dropped them in a temporary home then put 4 frames with them; smoking the bush heavily afterwards to lose the queen scent. I left them til it was dark, as is the way to do it unless you want to leave some behind, then took the to the new allotment apiary.

I checked on them Sunday and they seem healthy and happy. In the end, surprise but not unwelcome visitors.

Damn, escaping queens

So week before last I did two artificial swarms and a demaree. Now both old  queens on the artificial swarms have put up new cells and swarmed even with loads of room to expand, and it looks like the demaree’d one has too.

What is it with these bees, they need to read the books more. I did my part and they skipped a chapter and swarmed anyway.

Arghh!

At least I have some nice queen cells in nucs and a couple of hatches.

The queen in the demaree hive wasn’t one I wanted; her children keep giving be a bit of a hard time – during the demaree quite a pasting, swollen for 3 days afterwards. But the other two were very nice. Fortunately it’s their children I have in mating hives.